Silab has introduced Metallomia, a patented detoxifying active ingredient developed for menopausal skin. The French manufacturer says the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
The launch is based on a modeling study of menopausal skin conducted by Silab. According to the company, the work showed a shortfall in this iron-release mechanism. That deficiency is said to leave skin with insufficient bioavailable iron, which Silab links to premature aging. The manufacturer describes the phenomenon as metallo-aging and says UV radiation amplifies it by promoting the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes. The result, according to Silab, is a massive and uncontrolled release of iron that causes significant oxidative stress.
The dual framing is central to Silab's positioning. In the absence of sufficient ferritinophagy, menopausal skin is described as lacking bioavailable iron, a condition the company links to premature aging. With UV exposure, the same iron/ferritin complexes can break down, producing an uncontrolled iron release and oxidative stress. Metallomia is intended to address both sides by supporting controlled iron provision while limiting the downstream effects of complex degradation.
How the active is designed to work
Metallomia is intended to address both sides of this process. Silab says the active relaunches ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating iron provision and reactivating key epidermal functions. It also reports that the ingredient reduces iron/ferritin complexes, helping to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In volunteer studies cited by the company, Caucasian skin appeared revitalized after 14 days, with a reinforced barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the active before UV exposure, Silab says it prevented lipid peroxidation and limited the appearance of redness within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root and a traced supply chain
For Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company established a traced supply chain with French partners and validated the supply against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and through DNA barcoding authentication. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme-engineering process to extract polyuronides.
The resulting ingredient is recommended at 0.5–2% in all care products intended for menopausal skin. It is available as an aqueous solution, which Silab says makes it easy to formulate. The company states that Metallomia complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural-origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to Silab.